Growing RainbowEucalyptus from stem cutting

Rainbow Eucalyptus can be grown from its stem when the procedure given herein is adhered to with a lot of care, otherwise it renders it impossible despite being an easier way of planting a fast growing Rainbow eucalyptus.


Step 1- Obtain the cuttings

Cuttings require a lot of attention as it is the source of our intended Rainbow eucalyptus. From the existing plant and during the spring or in the late autumn when the tree approaches dormancy, obtain the stem cuttings immediately after new and young growth emerges. During this stage, ensure you have prepared an elegant rooting container before the gathering of cuttings is done.


Step 2-preparing the nursery container.

With the cuttings are ready together with the gathering container, fill the nursery container that could be about a one-gallon container, with a combination of equal quantities of perlite and coarse sand. Add water to the mixture until it is saturated in the uppermost 5 inches. Allow the water to drain off for about 30 minutes after which you make the potting of the Rainbow eucalyptus cuttings.


Step 3- Choosing the cuttings

Obtain three or even four stem cuttings out of the tip of greener, healthy and a vigorous Rainbow eucalyptus branch. Choose the cuttings that have at least four nodes of leaves and the girth of a 1/8 to 1/16 of an inch. Ensure to avoid those having yellow leaves or those depicting any signs of stress.


Step 4- making the cuttings

Make the cuttings 1/16 inch under the leaf node by a sharp bypass shears. Make or trim the base of the stem at a 45 degrees angle. Chop off a quarter-inch-long and a 1/8-inch-wide sliver of the bark immediately above the angled end by use of a utility knife. Get rid of leaves on the lower half of the eucalyptus cutting. On the upper part or the tip, remove half of the leaves. Then cut using the utility knife, the remaining leaves in half to enable decrease moisture loss by transpiration Ouabain.


Step 5- removing excess liquid from the cutting and potting of the cutting

Combine an equal quantity of 0.2 percent NAA rooting liquid in a disposable plastic container. Then carefully dip into the liquid the defoliated lower half of the cutting for about five to ten seconds. Then to remove the excess liquid, flick the cutting.

Pot the Rainbow eucalyptus cutting in the already prepared container of rooting. The cuttings can be placed at least 3 inches apart. Dip the hormone-pasted end of every cutting inside the moistened perlite mixture up to the point where the lowest set of leaves is just above the surface.


Step 6- setting the nursery

Position the nursery container in a cold frame them warm the container to about 70 F, this is done using propagation mat. Ensure you cover the cold frame from direct sunshine. The cuttings should be misted at most three times a day using a handheld spray.


Step 7- checking for roots and transplanting

Check whether the cuttings have developed roots by slightly tugging the base of the stem. When you notice the roots have started to develop, give the cutting about four days and the cutting is ready for planting under the conditions of soil and climate that are favourable for their growth

How to stratify seeds

First step for creating your own bonsai starts here

The gardeners aim is it to achieve that the seedlings grow like an eye catching in the European climate. The offered treatment is a considerable way to increase the germination of seeds. There is only a little work which needs to be done. The seeds will grow better sized in the following spring period.

Cold period requirement

The plants develop different types of seeds. Several seeds possess an outstanding survival mechanism which has been given by nature. Seed quiescence occurs when a seed fails to sprout because the external conditions in the nature are too cold for that. This is an assistance mechanism to prevent germination during unsuitable ecological conditions, when the possibility of survival is too low. The seed needs a cold period to germinate best. That tactic occurs in the external garden during the wintertime naturally. It makes some sense because new seeds would otherwise germinate in the autumn and the young seedlings would have to overcome a cold winter period. By imitating nature in many ways, gardeners can get a quick start at any time of the year by chilling seeds artificially. This technique is widely known as stratification. Gardeners who have germinated seeds indoors before will have in early spring excellent sized seedlings. This would be a better way as have a tiny piece of naturally sprouted transplants. Many commercial seeds have in principle already been stratified, but those which have been collected in the own garden will need this treatment before they will germinate indoors in pots.

Stratification of seeds

Several mixtures of components can be taken for stratifying seeds. Parts of peat are mostly suitable for smaller seeds. After sifting the raw material, the fine particles can be used. You should moisturize the components. The use of moistened sand combined with peat particles creates a better air supply for the roots. For larger seeds you can use a mix of 50% moistened sand and 50% vermiculite. Vermiculite is a mineral. The aim is to achieve a humidification.
Place a handful of the mix in a small bowl please. Make a hole in the middle and add so many seeds as you like. In addition cover the hole with a little mix at the top. After a short period of time remove the seeds and mixture from the bowl and squeeze out any additional water moderately. Then place the extract into a sealable plastic bag please. You should label the item with the name of the plant and the actual date. Leave it quite in a warm place for three days to allow the seeds to take up more water and swell. The seeds are now ready for chilling.
For chilling place the plastic bag in the refrigerator. Suitable is a drawer, which has the coldest temperature at all. Ideal would be a temperature about 5°C. Please make sure the seeds can’t freeze. Try to shake the bag once or twice a week. By this way you can keep the seeds aerated.
After the required chilling period remove the bag. Now large seeds can be sown out. It should be sown in pots in about four millimetres deep. Move the pots to the warmest sunny place at the window. After a short period of time the seeds can be planted outdoors. You will enjoy this technique because the plants grow later excellent in the garden.

The art of creating and forming a Bonsai-Tree

The beginning of this art, to form and define trees and bushes came from China since 206- 220 AD. In China this kind of gardening, is called Penjing. Bonsai is the Japanese name, but also in Indonesia this type of shaping plants is practiced.
Bonsai means ‘to grow something in a bowl’, while Penjing stands for ‘landscape in a bowl’.
In China there are many variations of Penjing, like Land and Water-, Tree- and Landscape-Penjing.
More focused on trees are the Japanese. And here they are also modelling bigger trees, in the way of Bonsai in their gardens.
The History began long ago in China in the early Han-Dynasty, about 206-220 AD. There were many botanical gardens in the palace and they made huge landscapes with little lakes and isles.
Even rock formations were built in these gardens.
Later in in the Tang-Dynasty, you can find little landscapes with
trees and rocks in the burial chambers of the prince Zhang Huai.bonnsai tree seeds
Penjing began to be successful in the Song-Dynasty, about 960-1279 AD. At this time they began to work with stones and water, to build watersides. Very favored were gnarled little pine trees.
The Yuan-Dynasty made the Penjing very popular. A poet, named He-Nian wrote down the principle ‘to see the big in the little’.
Firstly Penjing called, was that kind of gardening in the Ming-Dynasty, about 1368-1644 AD. Now they often named that little landscapes ‘three-dimensional paintings’. Very worthwhile were the small trees, when they grew up to half a meter. After that, you could find Penjing also in richer families in the Quing-Dynasty.

The art of Bonsai made its way to Japan, when there was the Edo-Period, in the 10th/11th century. Buddhistical monks brought it there. They grew the trees in forms that were really unnatural and to have plants that have rare mutations was highly popular. After that period there were many political organizer that were against that Bonsai-Culture. And that is why they formed a new type, the Bunjingi. Here only native tree species were used to build little landscapes.

The natural forms of growing passed away, because the trees needed to look like on Chinese paintings. From now on you could find these little artworks in teahouses, what makes them more accessible to a lower class of population. When the war against China ended the Bonsai was elevated to an art form.For Bonsai you can use every kind of woody trees and bushes. Traditional are pine trees, maple or Japanese apricot. In Europe we use more native ones like cedar or beech trees.
Methods to from your very own tree are the leaf cut, basic cut, removal of bark and moss and engrafting. Choose the proper bowl for the right look. And to handle everything in the way it is prescribed you need a Bonsai tool kit. It consists pliers, scissors, shovels, root hooks and knives.
Now you need to know what kind of form you want to have, because there so many ones.